Olinda, in Pernambuco, is one of the most attractive cities in Brazil year round, but it draws the most attention for what many consider the best Carnival in Brazil.
Olinda is located less than 10 miles from Recife, the state capital - also home to great Carnival, so that the two cities are often included in travel plans as a pair.
Olinda's historic downtown is a colonial treasure. In 1982, it became a Unesco World Heritage Site. The colonial center is also listed by IPHAN - The National Artistic and Historical Heritage Institute.
Olinda is one of the oldest cities in Brazil. Founded on a hilltop by Portuguese Duarte Coelho in the early sixteenth century, it was already a prosperous village in 1537, thanks to the wealth from pau-brasil - the tree which gave Brazil its name and was explored to extinction by the colonizers - and the region's sugar mills.
On February 16, 1630, Holland invaded Pernambuco. The Dutch chose to settle in the mangroves and islands by the port, rather than in Olinda. As Recife - meaning "reef" - came into being, Olinda was abandoned.
On November 24, 1631, the Dutch set fire to Olinda, after ripping the village's buildings of any noble material that could be used for constructions in Recife. When the Portuguese defeated the Dutch in 1654, the city was slowly rebuilt, but it was now secondary to Recife.
It wasn't until the mid-nineteenth century that Olinda regained prestige, recommended by doctors as a healthy summer destination.
The historic center of Olinda is the heart of the city's cultural life and the site of Olinda Carnival.
Some of the most popular areas in the historic center are Rua do Amparo, lined with colonial buildings which are now studios, inns, cafes and restaurants, and Alto da Sé, by the Sé Church, a hilltop with a fantastic view and busy weekend evenings.
Olinda's art studios offer a great variety of arts and crafts - paintings, sculptures, patchwork, and ceramics.
Shopping or simply browsing the city's art studios at is one of the best things to do in Olinda when it's not Carnival and the city reveals its leisurely side.
If you prefer an art-loving crowd to the frantic Carnival masses, visit the studios during Arte em Toda Parte, or "Art Everywhere" (see below).
Some of Olinda's churches are among the richest representatives of baroque and rococo style in colonial Brazil, with impressive gold leaf, carved noble woods, painted ceilings and Portuguese tiles.
At the São Bento Basilica and Monastery (1582), marvel at the ornate altar in carved cedar and gold leaf, which was featured in the Brazil Body & Soul exhibit at the Guggenheim Museum in New York City.
The Benedictine monks sing Gregorian chants on Mon-Sat at 6:30p and on Sundays at 10a.
Other outstanding churches in Olinda are the São Francisco Convent, famous for its Portuguese tiles; the Sé Church, the oldest in northeast Brazil, with a fantastic view of Olinda, and the neighboring Misericórdia Church, also with a great view.
The official Olinda website has a list of churches (in Portuguese), which includes chapels and passos.
One of the best museums in Olinda is the Mamulengo Museum, which showcases hundreds of traditional puppets (mamulengos). At the Sacred Art Museum (Museu de Arte Sacra de Pernambuco), you can see a collection that comprises four centuries. At the Regional Museum, furniture and ornaments give visitors an overview of life in Olinda since colonial times.
Olinda's art studios open up their doors for Arte em Toda Parte (Art Everywhere), a week-long event in late November / early December with special exhibits and music.
One of the wildest and largest celebrations in Brazil, Carnival in Olinda is known for its giant puppets and crowded streets.
Where to Eat in Olinda
There are good restaurants and eateries in Olinda, which has become well-known for the quality of its regional cuisine and international flair. Read our suggestions for where to eat in Olinda.
Where to Stay in Olinda
Olinda accommodations range from clean and pleasant budget options to upscale hotels. However, there isn't a wide availability of rooms.
When do hotels in Olinda start booking for the next Carnival? By July, most hotels already have Carnival prices and still have available rooms, but a few could start booking one year in advance or not until later in the year. For example, the Olinda HI hostel, which does well in Brazilian and international reviews, usually defines Carnival prices around July.
Don't wait till Carnival prices are posted online - browse this list of accommodations in Olinda and e-mail them as soon as possible to find out when they will start booking.
