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São Luís from About Guide to South America

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São Luís - Maranhão (MA)

From Patricia Ribeiro,
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Fast Facts:

  • Capital of Maranhão, one of Brazil's northeast states
  • Founded in 1612
  • Population: 870,028 (according to the official website)
  • The older and newer sectors of the city are divided by the Anil River and linked by the José Sarney Bridge.

History: São Luís is the only Brazilian state capital founded by the French who ruled over some of Brazil until they were defeated by the Portuguese. The city is named after French King Louis XIII. Later, it was also occupied by the Dutch, until the Portuguese colonizers took over. While little material evidence remains from the French and Dutch periods, the historical downtown area, comprising over 3,500 buildings mainly covered with tile in the colorful manner of Portuguese architecture, was named a Unesco World Heritage Site in 1997.
Folklore: A great number of Brazilian folkloric traditions as well as cultural expressions peculiar to Maranhão are alive and well in the state capital. The most important among them is bumba-meu-boi, a festive pantomime with music and dances. It tells the story of an ox (boi) killed by a slave to satisfy his pregnant wife's food cravings. The farmer who owned the animal called on some Indian shamans (pajés), who brought the animal back to life. In São Luís, this ancient celebration takes place during the Brazilian June Festivals.
Beaches: Calhau, known for its sand dunes; Ponta d'Areia, with reggae clubs; São Marcos, good for surfing; Praia Grande, where the historical district is located.
Festivals: Besides bumba-meu-boi, São Luís is getting more famous for recovering Carnival traditions that were fading away under the influence of southeastern Brazil Carnival, such as what takes place in Rio. The rhythm and dances known as tambor de crioula, or "the black woman's drum" which date back to slavery times and feature women dancing to an engaging drum beat, are strong again in a Carnival celebration that's creative and spontaneous.
Where to Stay: Choose from the city's many hotels or look for one of these inns in colonial buildings:
Museums & Historical Constructions:
  • Casa do Maranhão - In a historical building, a museum dedicated to Maranhão geography and culture, especially bumba-meu-boi
  • Casa de Nhozinho - Features the works of artisan Antônio Bruno Nogueira (Nhozinho)
  • Museu Histórico e Artístico do Maranhão - Address: Rua do Sol, 302. Phone number: (98)3221-4537. See José Alves Faria's photo album.
  • Also interesting: Teatro Arthur Azevedo, Casa das Tulhas, Palácio dos Leões.
Typical Food & Drink: In São Luís, no dish is more famous than the Maranhão specialty arroz-de-cuxá (pronounced "aHOZ de kooSHAH"), a hearty mix of rice and cuxá, made from a slightly bitter vegetable called vinagreira, shrimp and various seasonings. The state's signature drink is Guaraná Jesus, (created in the 1920s by a non-religious pharmacist). It's a sweet pink soda with some guaraná extract and a clover & cinnamon flavor.
São Luís in Pictures: This São Luís and Maranhão blog by passionate São Luís native Nelson Magela is worth a visit.
Brazil's Reggae Capital:

São Luís is known as the Brazilian Reggae Capital. Cultural affinities between São Luís and the not-so-distant Caribbean turned reggae into a local passion with unique traits - such as cheek-to-cheek dancing and distinct lingo.

As famous as São Luís reggae, radiolas are sets of sound towers (paredões, or "big walls"), with maybe dozens of speakers, set up at clubs, on the street, or on the beach, that blast away during São Luís constantly warm days and nights.

Projeto Trapiche, in Ponta d'Areia, Mama África, in Calhau, and Bar do Nelson, on Avenida Litorânea, are some of the best reggae bars in São Luís. Located in central areas, they are also safer alternatives for tourists who want to enjoy the local reggae scene.

São Luís from About Guide to South America

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