Fortaleza - Ceará

Overview: Fortaleza has over 2 million inhabitants. Big city life came with a price for central beaches such as Meireles and Iracema, which don't rank well in terms of water quality. However, they attract visitors because of their beauty and great nightlife. On the other hand, Praia do Futuro, a few miles away from the downtown area, is one of the best beaches in Brazil. Fortaleza is also a great hub to wonderful Ceará beaches of which Morro Branco and Canoa Quebrada are good examples.

Praia do Futuro: One of the greatest things about Praia do Futuro is the series of kiosks along the seashore. Some kiosks are like hotels on the sand - they have their own pools and playgrounds. At night, there's forró - couple dancing to the sound of the lively northeast music by the same name.

Fortaleza - Where to Stay: Hotels facing the Atlantic are plentiful in Fortaleza. It pays off to do a lot of research, compare prices and read reviews. Take a look at these listings on Yahoo Travel and Virtual Tourist. Pousada Atalaia, which faces the Atlantic Ocean on Iracema Beach, is Fortaleza's Hosteling International location.

The Statue Girl: Ceará-born writer José de Alencar, who lived in the 19th century, published his novel Iracema in 1865, telling the tragic story of a girl from the Tabajara tribe who fell in love with a Portuguese colonizer, stirring the strife between colonizers and natives. In Fortaleza, you can see statues of Iracema on Iracema and Mucuripe Beaches, as in these photos by Alex Uchôa.

Jangadas - A Symbol of the Brazilian Northwest: Jangadas (pronounced "janGAHdas", with "j" sounding as the second "g" in garage) are northeastern Brazil rafts, used particularly in Ceará. They made the fame of Mucuripe Beach, in Fortaleza, where fishermen use them to catch Fortaleza's culinary treasure - lobsters - and other seafood that can be bought fresh and prepared on the spot at the seafood market at the end of the beach. The elegant lines of jangadas are often depicted in artwork, such as this gorgeous photograph by Rumen Koynov. Brazilian songwriters Belchior and Fagner celebrated them in the song Mucuripe (click on "Ouvir" to listen to it).

What to Buy: Although Fortaleza has many colorful and inspired crafts, lace is the main local handicraft. Great places to find lace products are Ceart, at Centro Cultural Dragão do Mar and the night open air market on Meireles Beach, which has more than 100 booths.

Where to Eat Lobster and Other Seafood in Fortaleza:

• Alfredo - o Rei da Peixada - Mucuripe Beach
• Estoril - Iracema Beach
• Osmar - Rua São João, 149, in Mucuripe (not on the seashore)

Check this Fortaleza Restaurant Guide for addresses and more options.

Fortaleza Nightlife: Pirata Bar, on Iracema Beach, is one of the hottest spots in the Fortaleza night. Every Monday, the sound of the accordion, the zabumba drum and the triangle take over the club for a night of forró. Thursday nights are the best at the kiosks on Praia do Futuro, where people go to eat crab and dance to more forró music.