Next, we pass Baixo Vovô (Low Grandpa), between General Venâncio Flôres and General Artigas. On the tent, a sign reads "Onde todos ensinam e ninguém aprende" (Where everyone teaches and nobody learns).
Don't think the men in this area gather under the tent to play dominoes. This is beach volleyball territory. However, as one of the fit, tan men tells me as the net is rolled for the day, "This here is just for fun. We play for real in front of Garcia D'Ávila [in Ipanema], on Saturday and Sunday from 1 to 5pm."
As it turns out, the friendly guy is Elias Griner, father of Helio Griner, an assistant volleyball coach to Bernardinho, of national team fame. The senior Griner looks at least 15 years younger than he is and has been playing volleyball continuously for the past 55 years.